Low water flow may be the result of a shutoff valve that isn't open all the way. An insufficient flow of water is usually the result of a blockage, and to remove it, you first have to locate it. A common cause of blockages in kitchen faucets is a build-up of mineral deposits, which can collect in the supply hose, the shutoff valve under the sink or the faucet valve. Single-handle faucets can have either a cartridge or ball valve, and both types of valves have ports that can get blocked. A good strategy for diagnosing low hot water flow is to begin looking for problems at the water heater and work toward the faucet valve. Make sure that the hot water outlet valve on the water heater is open all the way by turning it counterclockwise as far as it will go. Check the hot water flow in other faucets in the house. If they also have low flow, and the water heater valve is open, there may be a restriction in the pipes near the water heater. This is more likely if the pipes are galvanized steel and old.

The solution is to replace the pipes. Open the shutoff valve under the sink all the way, and see if that makes a difference to the faucet flow. If the valve is already open, turn it off and disconnect the faucet supply hose from the faucet with adjustable pliers. Point the hose into the bucket and turn on the valve. If the flow is less than you expect, you probably need to replace the valve or the hose. Service the faucet if you can't find any other reason for the low flow. Start by turning off both shutoff valves under the sink and opening the faucet to relieve water pressure. Remove the faucet handle with a Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench, depending on how it is attached, and take out the valve. If it's a cartridge faucet, you may have to pull a pin with needle-nose pliers or unscrew a retaining nut with adjustable pliers to get the valve out. If it's a ball-valve faucet, unscrew the collar holding the valve with adjustable pilers, and carefully lift the valve off. Insert a length of bare 12-gauge electrical wire into the hot water inlet port in the valve seat to dislodge any deposits that may have accumulated there.

Flush the inlet by turning on the hot water shutoff valve for a few seconds. If you see mineral deposits around the base, you may be able to chip them off with a flathead screwdriver. If not, try dissolving them by soaking the valve overnight in white vinegar. Replace the valve if you can't clean it. Storage Unit Auctions Lawrence KsReassemble the faucet after cleaning the valve seat and cleaning or replacing the valve. Homes For Sale Bowerston Ohio 44695Turn on the shutoff valves, and flush air and loose debris out of the lines by leaving the faucet open for about 30 seconds. Puggle Puppies For Sale Ia/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionDEAR TIM: Several weeks ago our whirlpool faucet water pressure and volume dropped to half while I was filling the whirlpool with water.

The pressure and volume slowly returned to normal. At the same time, our kitchen faucet pressure and volume dropped even more than 50 percent. It has not returned to normal and gets worse each day. All other faucets seem to work fine and the toilets fill quickly. What is wrong and is it expensive to correct? Patty J., Sterling, VA DEAR PATTY: Strange residential water pressure problems are far more common today than they were years ago. Part of the dilemma has to do with the internal design of many modern faucet valves and another part of the problem is directly related to natural resource conservation measures. Years ago many standard kitchen, bath and shower faucets had rubber and plastic washers that contacted a circular valve seat inside the faucet. As you opened a faucet the washer would pull away from the valve seat creating a very large pathway for water to flow through. In many faucets the pathway was so big, a small, round BB could easily pass though the faucet and into the sink or a glass of water.

This older design allowed vast amounts of water to flow through a faucet and this is not a great thing when we have a growing population and limited fresh water supplies. But many of today's modern faucets have washerless cartridges inside the body of the faucet. The modern cartridge replaces the older washer and valve seat design which controls water flow. The pathway through which water passes in these cartridges is much smaller than old faucets. Many of today's faucets also have an aerator at the end of the faucet. These devices are often made up of several small parts. If you take the aerator apart, you will discover extremely small holes in round disks made of plastic or metal. The water flowing from the faucet must pass through these tiny orifices. To meet federal and state guidelines to conserve water, many modern faucets and fixtures have flow restrictors that limit the amount of water that can pass through the faucet in a given amount of time. These restrictors often have tiny holes that limit the amount of water flow.

I am convinced the drop in water volume and pressure at the two faucets was caused by small pieces of sediment or some other debris that clogged a passageway within the valve cartridge and/or the tiny orifices within the aerator and or a flow restrictor. This is an extremely common problem for many homeowners. The sediment can form within a faucet or its parts depending upon the hardness of your water. Sediment also forms as a scale on the inside of municipal water supply pipes and the water lines inside your home. Pieces of this sediment can break off and be transported through the water lines as water moves towards a faucet. Small pieces of sand or rocks can enter a water system, especially those of people who use a private well. These can block the pathways within your faucets. These low water pressure and flow problems are very common just after a water main break in a municipal water system. Sand, dirt and other debris can enter municipal piping systems when a water main fractures.

Once the water main is repaired, this debris is transported through the water system and can end up in your home. Small shavings of piping, soldering flux, sediment, etc. can also be carried through your own pipes when repairs are made to your plumbing system or new piping is added at your home. Problems can also happen by simply turning on or off a main or secondary water control valve within your home by a plumber who might be installing a new faucet or performing a repair. If a city water main or water line inside your home is drained and then refilled with water, the incoming water can break off tremendous amounts of sediment and carry it through the water system. This happens when the surge of water rushes into the empty pipes creating a miniature tsunami of roiling water and sediment as the water fills the pipes. It is not expensive to correct the problem. The first thing I would look at are the aerators in any faucet that is giving you problems. Carefully remove the aerator and pay attention to how the different parts are assembled.

Look at the parts, including the screening at the tip of the aerator, to ensure all parts are free of debris and all pathways are clear. Use tiny straight pins to open up any closed holes in these parts. You may have to soak the parts in warm, white vinegar overnight to removed caked, hard-water deposits that can build up within the aerator. If, after reassembling the aerator, the water pressure and volume are still low, this means the problem is probably in the valve cartridge. The owner's manual that came with the faucet will show you how to remove and replace this common and inexpensive part. If you do not have the manual, try visiting the manufacturer's website for a technical bulletin showing you an exploded view of the faucet and its parts. To stop sediment from ending up inside the faucets in your home, it is best to open up an outside hose faucet or two to allow water to flow through them after you have completed a plumbing repair on your own home. These faucets often have the old-fashioned rubber or plastic washers.

It is also a splendid idea to remove all faucet aerators before water is turned back on after a repair. I suggest turning on the main water valve very slowly after a home plumbing repair. Be sure to have the outdoor faucets open before you do this. This allows the pressure within the piping system to build slowly and a majority of sediment might be carried outdoors if the repair was made between the location of the hose faucet and the main water inlet to the home. If a water main breaks near your home and you notice there is no water in your home, do the same thing. While the water is off, go turn on one or two outside hose faucets. Also remove all faucet aerators. Since the water works employees will often turn the water on without notifying each homeowner, you may not get a warning. You want any sediment to be carried to these outside hose faucets or bypass faucet aerators if at all possible. Companion Articles:  Low Shower Head Water Pressure, Tub Faucets are mistake-free, well, I have several bridges and an airport I would like to sell to them.